"Paris has the Eiffel Tower - Italy has the tower in Pisa - Here in Iceland we have the wilderness." So says one of the many passionate campaigners fighting the biggest change ever imposed on the hitherto unspoilt Icelandic landscape. A huge dam is being created, blocking rivers flowing from Europe's largest glacier, and flooding a vast area. Critics say it is an environmental disaster and the first step to a polluted industrialised future - supporters claim it will bring investment and jobs to the region.
